
Wheels and tires first
Clean wheels before paint so brake dust doesn’t splash onto a clean car. Separate bucket and brushes for wheels, never the same mitt.
Wheels first, then a foam pre-soak, a two-bucket wash, decontamination, protection and glass. Inside, work top-down: vacuum, shampoo, clean, protect, then glass last.
A car wash cleans the surface. A detail resets the whole car: wheels and tires, a safe hand wash, iron and tar removal, clay, a layer of protection, trim and glass, then the interior vacuumed, shampooed, wiped down and protected. Done in the right order with the right products, a careful owner can get close to a pro result at home. The order matters as much as the products.

Top-down, dirtiest parts first, and nothing touches the paint until the loose grit is gone. This is the order our crews use.

Clean wheels before paint so brake dust doesn’t splash onto a clean car. Separate bucket and brushes for wheels, never the same mitt.

Rinse off loose dirt, then foam the car and let it dwell a few minutes. The foam lifts grit so the mitt isn’t dragging it across the paint.

One bucket of soap, one of rinse water with a grit guard. Wash top-down in straight lines and rinse the mitt after every panel. pH-neutral soap only.

In Colorado this matters. Mag chloride sits in wheel wells and frames and eats metal. Rinse underneath every wash from November through March.

Spray an iron remover, let it bleed purple, rinse. Spot-treat tar. This is what makes paint feel rough even after a wash.

Lube the panel well and glide a clay bar or mitt with light pressure until it’s glass-smooth. Do it once or twice a year, not every wash.

Use a blower or a plush drying towel and pat or drag gently. No squeegees or bath towels. Dry in shade so water doesn’t spot in Colorado’s dry air.

Apply a sealant, wax or coating to clean paint, dress tires and trim, then clean glass last with a dedicated glass towel.
Always work from the headliner down so dust falls onto areas you haven’t cleaned yet. Glass is always the last thing you touch.

Pull every mat, car seat and loose item. Check under seats and in seat tracks, where most of the debris and odor hides.

Brush vents, seams and stitching to loosen dust, then vacuum top-down with a crevice tool. Air-blow tight spots first.

A rubber pet-hair brush or pumice stone pulls woven-in hair that a vacuum misses. Brush in one direction, then vacuum.

Pre-treat stains, agitate with a brush, then extract with a hot-water extractor or wet vac. Don’t soak the carpet; it mildews under the padding.

Clean leather with a pH-balanced leather cleaner and a soft brush, wipe, then condition. Cloth seats get the same pre-treat and extract as carpet.

Steam cupholders, vents and door pockets to lift sticky residue and kill odor-causing bacteria. Enzyme cleaner handles spills and pets.

Interior cleaner on a towel, not sprayed on screens. Finish with a non-greasy UV protectant. No shine on pedals or the steering wheel.

Two towels: one to clean, one to buff. Roll windows down an inch to get the top edge. Then reinstall dry mats.
These cause most of the swirls, stains and early wear we correct in the shop.
Mistake 01One bucket puts grit back on the paint. Dish soap strips protection and dries out trim.
Mistake 02Soap and water dry on the paint and leave spots, fast, at Colorado altitude.
Mistake 03Brushes and recycled water are the biggest source of swirl marks we see.
Mistake 04They are abrasive. They dull and scratch soft-touch plastics and screens.
Mistake 05Mag chloride corrodes brake lines and frames. Rinse underneath all winter.
Mistake 06Shiny silicone on pedals, wheels and seats is slippery and attracts dust. Use matte UV protectant.
In Colorado, dust, UV and winter road treatment speed everything up. Here is the schedule we recommend.




Straight answers from a Gtechniq Accredited Installer. Call (719) 517-7220 if your question isn’t here.
Wheels and tires first, then pre-rinse and foam, two-bucket wash, underbody rinse, iron and tar removal, clay, dry, protect, and glass. Inside: empty it, vacuum top-down, shampoo, clean surfaces, protect, then glass last.
A thorough DIY detail inside and out takes 4 to 6 hours. Our full details take about 3.5 hours with a trained crew and professional equipment.
A wash cleans the surface. A detail decontaminates and protects the paint and deep cleans the interior, including carpets, seats, vents and glass.
No. It strips wax, sealant and coating protection and can dry out rubber and plastic trim. Use a pH-neutral car shampoo.
Rinse the underbody, wheel wells and lower panels often in winter, and use an iron or fallout remover on the paint. For long-term protection, an undercarriage coating helps.
At ST6, a VIP Hand Wash is $89, Complete Interior $199, Gold Detail $299 and Platinum Detail $499 for a car or crossover. Larger vehicles cost a little more.
ST6 crews do this process every day, mobile at your driveway or in the shop at 2725 N Nevada Ave. Gold Detail from $299, no deposit, you pay after the work is done.
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